Monday, July 14, 2014

Up the Potomac (without a paddle)



Crossing the Chesapeake Bay just north of Smith Island
is Solomons Lump Light, former home of another
lonely lighthouse keeper
After a couple weeks at Crisfield MD, plus another couple days waiting for the winds to die down, we departed the Eastern Shore, but not before buying another pound of lump crab meat.  At only $15/lb, we’ll have to eat crab for the next couple days (yeah, I know, this traveling life is hard to take).
 
Crossing the Bay, we passed the restored skipjack
heading to Crisfield.  Skipjacks were the original
Bay oyster boats.
 

READ YOUR CHARTS!  In the middle of the Bay
are wrecks still used by the Navy for bombing
and strafing targets!

We thought we’d be dodging thunderstorms during the entire crossing of the Chesapeake Bay to the western shore, but we had no rain and only 2’ waves.  We entered the mouth of the Potomac River near slack tide, so the water wasn’t turbulent like many boaters find it.  Once we entered the River, I was amazed at how calm & smooth the waters were.  Certainly different from being out on the Bay.

At the anchorage, Sue relaxes on the swim platform
while she drinks her beer, just before she
jumped into the water for a swim.
We were told by several boaters about the beautiful anchorage in Horseshoe Bend up the St Mary’s River, so that was our destination for 2 nights at anchor.  It was a very pretty location with lots of protection from wind and waves.  Following our boater-friend’s advice, the next day we put the dinghy into the water (after fixing yet another air leak), and rowed ashore to see the restoration of Historic St Mary’s City.

Working replica of the "Dove".  Sails are still
unfurled by hand by climbing the cat ropes.
For your history lesson today, you’ll want to know that St Mary’s MD was the 4th English settlement in the New World, with everything starting around 1634.  Lord Calvert held the charter to the colony and set up St Mary’s as the capital of Maryland.  Since he was not allowed to practice his Catholic faith in England, he set up St Mary’s to be open to all religions, and in doing so, established the “birthplace of religious freedom”.  As luck would have it, his “experiment” in religious freedom lasted about 15 years before the Protestants protested (that’s what pro-testants do, isn’t it?), tortured the Catholics, and moved the colonial capital to Annapolis MD.  Archeologists have been reconstructing the homes, businesses, streets and city for years, so it is quite extensive and authentic.

The "Dove" square rigger sailing among the boats
at the anchorage
Of particular note was a replica of the “Dove”, a wooden sailing ship about 50 feet long which was one of the ships that brought the English colonists across the Atlantic to St Mary’s MD.  We went aboard to see how unimaginable it was to cross the ocean on such a small ship.  Further, the replica is fully functional, and sails regularly, as we found out that evening as a square-rigged sailing ship passed among the pleasure boats at anchor in the cove.  It’s not every day you see something like this!  “We’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto!”


Sunset at the anchorage - the perfect ending of
another perfect day!
After two enjoyable nights at anchor, we cruised another 40 miles upriver to a marina at Colonial Beach to check it out for a long term visit next week.  It will soon be time to put the boat up for a month while we become landlubbers again to take care of personal commitments.  The following day we fought a 2.5 mph head current 40 more miles up the Potomac to an anchorage right across from the USMC Quantico base.  We felt very safe & secure sleeping that night.


We’re looking forward to the coming 4 days we’ll spend in Washington D.C. at a marina on the Potomac right next to the Jefferson Memorial.  We’ll have to write something in our blog about those experiences!


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